Knitted fabric and method for making the same



@ct. 13, 1936. E NN 2,057,375

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR MAKING THE SAME Filed June 15, 1932 sSheets-Sheet 1 wmi xyxwikr KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR MAKING THE SAMEA. FRIEDMANN Filed June 15, 1932 s Sheets-Sheet 2 g INVENTOR Oct. 13,1936. A. FRIEDMANN 7 KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR MAKING THE SAME FiledJune 15, 1932' :5 Sheets-Sheet s !NVENTOR BY A A ('05 ATTOW PatentedOct. l3, 1936 UNITED STATES,

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR MAKING THE SABIE Albert Friedmann,Wyomissing, Pa, 'asslgnor to Louis Hirsch Textile Machines, Inc., NewYork, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application June 15, 1932, SerialNo. 611,321

30laims.

Ihis invention relates to knitted fabrics particularly of the singlethread full fashioned type, to a method of producing them in a simpleand economical manner on a flat knittingmachine of the cotton typeemploying spring beard needles.

Among the objects of this invention is the production of a single threadfabric having all of the qualities inherent in the best hosiery fabric,but in which the. tendency to run through the breaking of a thread isgreatly reduced, if not entirely eliminated.

As is well known in the art, particularly to those who manufacture silkhosiery, if a thread of one loop breaks the loops ahead and behind inthe same needle wale are no longer anchored and so open up. This openingprogresses successively from loop to loop resulting in what is known asruns or ladders. -If a thread is broken before the stocking is put onthis running or laddering becomes aggravated as soon as the stocking isstretched over the leg so that it is often ruined before it has beenworn.

I A further object of the invention is the production of such a fabricwithout the transferring or cross of loops from one needle wale toanother with the exception of those used in fashioning and which,consequently, with this exception consists of but a single layer ofloops throughout with the result that the face or outer surface of thefabric is uniformly smooth. .This minimizes the danger of pulled threadsduring later use.

Hitherto attempts have been made to producet non-run single threadfabric on flat bar knitting machines by transferringloobs from oneneedle wale to another or by the introduction of an interlocking warpthread. In. so doing the stocking has lost some of its major fullfashionedcharacteristics, such as the identifying fashion marks, neatand comfortable seams, proper transverse and longitudinal elasticity,etc.. By the invention of this application run-resisting fabric isproduced possessing all of the desirable characteristics of the bestgrade of hosiery fabric including finished selvages and fashioningmarks.

Moreover, because of the manner in which the fabric is made no timeislost in transferring loops or in laying in additional threads so thatthe same rate of production as in plain knitting is maintained.Furthermore, no changes are required in the timing of the movements ofthe various loop forming elements so that much work and expense iseliminated in comparison with the ordinary methods of production. If thefabric of this'inventlon happens to be damaged during the manufacturingprocess the yarn may be readily back-wound so that much waste iseliminated.

It is well known in knitting fabric on a flat bar knitting machine thata single thread runs across the fabric in a series of loops, each, ofthe loops 7 ceeding courses.

shorter one so that a substantial guard against conventional cotton typeknitting machine suitdescend; it also shows diagrammatically a formwhich the new loops are kept under the beard in one course being chainedor linked to the loops in the same wale of the next preceding and suc-The nature of the usual loops is well understood. One characteristic isthat ordinarily they are all of the same length. In case 5 of breakageof the thread in one loop the adi acent loops in the same needle walewill have nothing to hang to and will, consequently, open up and a runwill begin. By this invention loops of unequal length are linkedtogether in the same needle wale in "such a way that in case athreadbreaks the run will progress 'only as far as the next enlarged loop. Thelonger loop cannot easily pass through the A clearer understanding ofthe invention may 25 be had by reference to the following diagrammaticdrawings in which- Figure 1 shows the back surface of the im-- provedfabric with the loops somewhat loosened up to more clearly indicatetheir formation and 30 relation;

Fig. 2 shows a perspective view of fabric in similar condition to thatshown in Fig. 1 as it hangs on the needles showing how some of the newloops are being pulled through the old ones, while other new loops arebeing thrown off the needles, while the old loops on these same needlesare retained thereon;

Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 show in similar condition the fabric after thefirst, second, third and fourth courses, respectively, are formed; inshort, the complete development of the improved loop construction;

Fig. '7 shows the loop forming elements of a able for use in producing afabric according to my present invention with old and new loopspositioned on the needles and sinkers just after couliering and dividingas the needles begin to 50 of attachment for modifying the operation inproducing the fabric of this invention;

' Fig. 8 shows the same elements in an advanced position to illustratethe conventional manner in while the old loops are pressed or strippedover the beards;

Fig. 9 shows the first stage in the manipulation of some of the needlesto make the peculiar stitch 0f the invention and how the new loops areforced over the needle beards preparatory to being dropped from theneedles;

Fig. 10 shows the second stage of special manipulation of the needlesshown in Fig. 9, and how the old loops are retained on the needles bypreventing the needle beards from engaging with the regular press edge;

Fig. 11 shows the arrangement of the loop forming elements during thefashioning or narrowing cycle and how the special press bar is thrownout of operation at this time;

Fig. 12 is a front view of the special presser bar;

Figure 13 is a view similar to Figures 1 and 2, but somewhat enlargedshowing the arrangement and relative sizes of the loops and the closureof the loops in the completed fabric with the extremely short loopspulled tightly around the bases of the longer loops; and

Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic view of a full fashioned stocking blank asproduced on a flat bar knitting machine.

In the drawings no attempt has been made, except in Figure 13, tomaintain actual and correct dimensions and links of the loops, but asstated, Figures 1 to 6 show the fabric with the loops in loosened upcondition in order to more clearly show the relation of the loops.

To start the knitting of the fabric of this invention the course ofloops is laid, formed and pressed in the usual way as shown in course Aof Fig. 3. At the end of this operation there will be a loop hanging oneach needle shank between sinkers 3 and knock-over bits 2, (Fig. 7).

Yarn for course B is then laid and loops are sinkered and divided aroundeach needle. But instead of pressing off all the old loops of course A(hanging on needle shanks) and pulling all the new loops of course B(those in process of formation) through them, 'only alternate old loopsare pressed off and their complementary new loops drawn through them.The old loops of course A on the remaining needles are not pressed off,and the complementary new loops of course B are thrown from theirneedles which results in a thread stretching or floating from one normalloop to the next. The loops in course A which were not pressed ofi areconsequently elongated to what may be called a long length loop, whilethose which were pressed ofi are correspondingly shortened to what maybe called a short length loop. Because alternate loops in course B arefirst partially formed but then thrown from the needles, those remainingare elongated into medium length loops. Upon completion of course B,there are now the long loops of course A on alternate needles, while theremaining needles carry the loops of intermediate length formed incourse B. These course B loops are connected to the short. loops ofcourse A.

Yarn for course C is now laid, sinkered and divided. All the loopshanging on the needle shanks (those formed in courses A and B) are nowpressed off and the new loops of course C are pulled through them in theusual manner, (Fig. 5).

Course D is now laid, sinkered and divided, but, as in courses A and B,only alternate loops of course C are pressed off, and only correspondingnew loops of course D are drawn through them. In course D, however, theneedles which were not pressed in course B are now pressed so that ineach needle valve there is a long loop, then an extremely short one,then one of medium length, again a long one, etc.

Figs. 1 to 6 of the drawings illustrate this method of knitting. Thefabric is, of course, greatly enlarged or loosened up in these figuresto clearly show the loop formations. In actual practice the short loopsare so short that they surround the bases of the following long loops inthe same wale so closely that they effectively anchor the long loops andmake it substantially impossible for them to slip through the shortloops unless unusual strain is applied to the fabric with the deliberateintent of making them do so.

A run-resisting fabric is thus produced in a very simple manner withoutthe transfer of loops from one wale to another and without theintroduction of additional interlocking warp threads or any othercomplications. The fabric retains its highly desirable characteristic ofuniform thickness throughout and no trouble is experienced in makinguniform selvages and, consequently, neat seams. Also the elasticity ofthe fabric is unimpaired.

A further characteristic of very great value is that the fabric of thisinvention may be fashioned by narrowing without the least diflicultysimply by transferring selvage loops after such courses as B and D areknit from one needle to another in the well known manner. Thus theimportant identifying characteristic of full fashioned hosiery, i. e.,the fashion marks, may be preserved.

In Figures 7 to 12, I have shown somewhat diagrammatically one form ofapparatus suitable for use in carrying out my invention. In general, theapparatus shown is that of a flat knitting machine of standardconstruction having the usual arrangement of spring bearded needles l,sinkers 3, dividers 4, knock-over bits 2 and presser edge 6. Inaddition, there is provided an auxiliary presser bar 5 rockably mountedon a suitable shaft 9 which may be operated from the main cam shaft ofthe machine. The press edge of auxiliary presser bar 5 is provided witha series of points l0 spaced so as to engage with every other needle andto function to close the beards of those needles before the action ofthe regular presser edge 6 would normally take place, anddirectlythereafter to permit the beards to open but to still prevent engagementbetween these needles and. presser edge 6. The spaces ll between pointsID are sufficiently deep so as not to interfere with the pressing of theremaining needles on the regular press edge 6 in the usual manner. Theoperation of the various parts will be clearly understood from adescription of the novel method of forming the fabric of my in--vention.

The loops in course A formed in the usual manner, ultimately hang onneedles I between the knock-over bits 2 and sinkers 3 (Fig. 7). A newcourse (course B) is laid and formed around the needles by sinkers 3 anddividers 4 at the throat of the sinkers and dividers (Fig. '7). Thenauxiliary presser bar 5 is rocked forward with the result that as theneedles descend in the usual manner the beard of every other needle willbe first closedand then permitted to open, but these needles will beheld out of contact with presser edge 6 through engagement withauxiliary presser bar 5, whereas the remaining needles will be pressedagainst the regular presser edge 6 as usual. The result of thisoperation is that the loops of course B carried by those needles whichare pressed against the regular presser edge 6 will pass under theneedle beards, and the coraooaa'rs As the needles continue to descend,presser bar' continues to withhold these needles from contacting withpresser edge 6, but allow their beards to open so that the old loops ofcourse A hanging thereon pass under the beards, i. e., are not pressedoff (Fig.

Now as the needles and sinkers complete their loop formingv cycle, loopsof course B hanging on those needles which were specially manipulatedare thrown off and disappear, the neighboring normally formed loopstaking up the slack and being elongated thereby into medium lengthloops, while the corresponding old loops in course A are retained on theneedles and elongated into long length loops, the yarn required toelongate these loops being supplied by the neighboring loops which werenoimally pressed ofi; these latter loops becoming shortened into shortlength loops in the process.

Course C is now laid, all needles being normally pressed and the loopspulled through the medium length loops of course B, and the long loopsof course A. Course D is then laid, sinkered and divided and alternateneedles manipulated as in course B, but this time those which were notmanipulated in course B are brought into engagement with auxiliarypresser bar 5, said auxiliary presser bar being shifted laterally oneneedle by suitable mechanism which may be similar to the well knownmeans heretofore em-' 'picot or lace bar may also be used to serve thispurpose by providing it with suitably shaped press points. It will beunderstood, of course, that such a bar could no longer serve itspicoting or lacing functions.

As will be obvious to persons skilled in the operation of fiat knittingmachines, thepresser bar 5 inwhatever form itmay take, may be mountedand operated in the proper timed relation in any suitable or convenientmanner. Inasmuch as this structure forms no part of my presentinvention, detail description of the mounting and operation of' thepresser bar is necessary. Itwill be understood, of course, that theoperation of narrowing a fabric in accordance with well known straight,flat knitting, does not effect nor is it effected by the carrying out ofthe peculiar knitting operations required in producing a fabric inaccordance with my invention.

While the above description discloses the auxiliary presser bar 5 asmanipulating alternate needles for every other course, it is alsopossible to arrange the presser bar to manipulate every third, fourth,fifth needle, or any desired needles in any desired course, the onlychanges required being in the spacing of the points it and the timing ofthe cam action which controls the presser bar.

Also,, the fabric of my invention may be reinforced as usual or in anydesired parts to form any desired pattern by the use of the usualadditional reinforcing thread knit into the fabric with the other threadin the usual way. However, the loop formation of the reinforced portionshave the novel characteristics and qualities of my invention,

What I seek to secure by United States Letters Patent is:

1. A run resisting plain knitted selvedge edged fashioned fiat fabricknitted of a single thread and having repeats comprising a first courseknitted with short tight stitches in alternate wales and long stitchesin intermediate wales, a second and next adjacent course knitted withlong stitches in alternate wales and having the yarn floated overintermediate wales, a third course next adjacent the second courseknitted with long stitches in alternate wales and short tight stitchesin intermediate wales, and a fourth course next adjacent the thirdcourse knitted with the yarn floated over alternate wales and knittedinto long stitches in intermediate wales, whereby -each two longstitches are followed by a short tight stitch for arresting a run insuch wale.

2. A full fashioned selvedge edged stocking blank having theconventional fashion marks therein and formed of afabric knitted of asingle yarn and having repeats comprising a first course knitted withshort tight stitches in alternate wales and long stitches inintermediate wales, a second course knitted with long stitches inalternate wales, and having the yarn floated over intermediate wales, athird course knitted with long stitches in alternate wales and shorttight stitches in intermediate wales, and a fourth course having theyarn floated over alternate wales and knitted into long stitches inintermediate wales whereby each two long stitches are followed by ashort tight stitch.

3. The method of knitting a run resisting flat selvedged edge fashionedfabric from a single thread which consists in laying and knitting a fullfirst course of ordinary loops, laying a fullsec- 0nd course andknitting the alternate loops only,

linking these to-the alternate loops of the first course, theintervening loops of the second course being floated across interveningloops of the first its alternate loops linked to the alternate loops ofthe second course and intervening loops linked to intervening loops ofthe first course, laying a full'fourth course and knitting theintervening loops only and linking these to the intervening loops of thethird course, the alternate loops of the fourth course being floatedacross the alternate loops of the third course, and then laying andknitting a full fifth course, linking the intervening loops thereof tointervening loops of the fourth course and alternate loops to alternateloops of the third course to begin a new series of courses of the samecharacter and arrangement.

ALBERT FRIEDMANN.

, course, laying and knitting a full third course with

